Installation Training

The most visible point on the roof should never be the leftover. Start from a random end, and you can arrive at the peak with the light in the wrong place.

IronPeak's core method starts at the apex: the point where the two roof slopes meet. Establish that center before building the runs below it.

Fit the appropriate Apex piece to the roof geometry, with the peak light centered. Check the actual fit before committing to the run.

Now work down each side from that reference. Follow the track's intended node spacing, and check how the next section continues the rhythm.

Watch the transition from the Apex into straight track. A centered peak does not excuse a strange gap at the very next joint.

Plan the remaining lengths and terminations lower down. Different roof slopes can need different end treatments. Don't force equal cuts onto unequal geometry.

The point is control. You decide where the eye lands first, then check the rest of the roof against it. The hardware still needs careful placement.

Before the first run goes up, mark the peak, check the first spacing on both sides, and plan the ends. Peak. Pattern. Ends.

Two flanges. Two different jobs. Here's how IronPeak's hat channel mounts under the soffit, without mixing up the house side and the outside edge.

The fascia is the outer vertical trim. The soffit is the underside running back toward the house. Keep those two surfaces straight.

Slide the outside flange under the fascia lip furthest from the house. That lip overlaps the flange. This is the outside edge of the connection.

Bring the house-side flange into position against the soffit. Check that the channel sits cleanly, with no trapped wire and no forced twist.

Fasten through that house-side flange into the soffit assembly, using the attachment method appropriate for the actual substrate. Confirm suitable support first.

If the channel won't sit properly, fix the fit. Don't use screw pressure to hide a mismatch, crush the profile, or trap a cable.

Viewed from below, the outside flange is captured by the fascia lip. The inside flange is fastened at the soffit. On this horizontal eave, the light faces down from the track’s underside.

Dry fit a short section before starting the run. Slide the outside. Seat the inside. Secure the house-side flange. Then repeat that clean connection.

A deep fascia and a shallow fascia can look similar from the driveway. Up close, they can change how the track fits and how much of the light you see.

Before choosing the profile, inspect the fascia lip, the soffit surface, and the space between them. Check the condition of the trim and the fastening support.

Under-soffit mounting and angled mounting are different arrangements. A photo of a finished house doesn't tell you which profile will fit yours.

Use a short sample of the intended track. Can the outside flange enter the fascia lip? Can the house-side flange seat cleanly at the soffit?

Check the lens position from the viewing angle, cable clearance inside the channel, and the fastener location. Confirm the assembly fits without distortion.

On a sloped gable soffit, confirm the Apex fit and track orientation as well. A flat-eave sample does not answer every peak.

If the fit is unclear, send a clear underside photo and roof-edge profile to IronPeak before committing. Show the lip, the soffit, and the intended mounting position.

The right profile starts with the actual roof edge. Inspect it. Dry fit it. Resolve the mismatch before a whole run is waiting on the ladder.

Start at the peak. So the power starts at the peak too? Not necessarily. That's two different decisions, and confusing them makes a complex roof harder than it needs to be.

The mechanical plan puts the Apex and track where they belong. Establish the peak, then work down the roof. That controls the visible layout.

The electrical plan determines how the system is fed and how the control signal travels. Follow the current system wiring instructions for that route.

Map the disconnected sections before installing them. Mark the dormers, returns, and places where a cable must travel without a visible line of lights.

An unlit, preterminated extension connects the end of one light run to the next. Mark the start, end, and protected route. Confirm penetration details before drilling.

Don't invent a signal split just because the roof splits. Verify the required cable, connectors, data direction, and power design with the current instructions.

Power off before handling connections. Follow the system’s test procedure for each new section and jump. Resolve unexpected behavior before closing the connection away.

One roof. Two plans. Center the physical layout. Plan power and data separately. And never let a hidden jump become a surprise at the end.

The lights turn on. You're done? Not yet. A dark lower section, a scratched track, or an awkward gap can survive a quick glance.

Power off before handling connections. Then follow the system’s test procedure as each section is added. Find problems while connections are accessible, before the track is closed.

Go back to the apex. Is the peak light centered? Do the first nodes on both sides continue the intended spacing? Check the joints and the lower terminations too.

Look along the installed track in daylight. Check alignment, seating, exposed cable, damaged finish, and fastening. A light show won't hide a crooked edge in the afternoon.

Step back to the homeowner's normal viewing position. Check the roofline as a whole, then look at the peaks, transitions, corners, and disconnected sections.

Run a simple static setting, then an approved test pattern. Look for missing lights, inconsistent response, or a section that isn't following the command.

Demonstrate the basic controls to the customer, save a clear completion record, and explain how to get support. A clean handoff is part of the install.

Centered at the peak. Seated along the soffit. Tested from end to end. That's the finish check worth repeating on every job.